Day 9 of 16 - Zion National Park

Breakfast was Freedom (French) Toast with a great fruit salad including mangos and pineapple. The bus toss required me to organize the placement of suitcases on one tarp, sleeping bags and tents on another, pads from inside the bus on another, and everything else loose cleared from inside the bus and placed on a tarp for someone to claim. Passengers going the whole 16 days loaded their stuff in the back, and the passengers leaving after 9 days load their stuff in the front. We took off for Zion NP and met the other Tortoise bus just finishing up the Western Trails tour down the California Coast (and some new passengers jumping on for the second half of our tour now called Canyons of the Southwest). Everyone went on a hike into Zion, and I opted for the most difficult hike for some reason, Angel’s Landing. This entailed walking straight up for 3 miles in 106 degree heat and no shade. Why am I doing this in August? I think there were far more foreigners here than Americans, because we would visit this in the winter, I think! I kept walking and probably drank a gallon of water from my camel pack. When I finally reached the summit I poured most of the rest of the water on my head. But it was worth the hike--the views were amazing, and the last bit was challenging requiring  holding on to chains to keep from falling off the rock—all sandstone.

I stayed with a group from our bus up top for awhile while they did more steep stuff beyond the summit, then departed for camp to help make dinner.  I was really hoping for a swim in the river at the bottom, but there was no time left and I actually had to run downhill part of the way. This is a place to visit more later for sure. Just hearing about the other parts of the park from our passengers made me jealous I didn’t go to the places you get wet or see bizarre formations or see the visitor’s center. Anyway, I caught the shuttle, drained the rest of my water, and 45 minutes later was at the park entrance looking for the bus. When I finally arrived at the dinner spot I collapsed in a heap and Dave helpfully suggested I soak my burning feet in the creek before we started making dinner.  This time it was just the four drivers cooking, and while cutting up onions and other veggies, we had some great conversations about the trips they’ve taken and their personal lives beyond the Tortoise.

Finally we were feeding 60 for dinner, which was stir fry indian and waldorf salad. After dinner, we made our parting goodbyes to the 15 or so passengers leaving,  and they gave us a nice card and envelope with tips for Dave and myself. That was unexpected and very sweet!!

Day 8 of 16-Kodachrome and the Big Rock Candy Mountains

Did I describe how the Polish twins are blending so nicely on our bus? Despite no English, they have learned all the card games (at least 2 going on simultaneously) and are comfortable with everyone. Yesterday one of them was inspecting all the cabinets and the sleeper berth and in general walking around with charming curiousity and saying, “hello how are you” to everyone. They are often like little birds chirping loudly around their parents when it’s time to swim or go somewhere. But now they are more  with the passengers offering to help or learn more words. The German girls are wonderful with them.

We left the hot springs, picked up some supplies at a local store and headed for Kodachrome State Park. This is our first taste of hiking in red rock formations, with Zion and Bryce national parks and Moab Navajo BLM lands at the Colorado River still ahead.

Not looking forward to exercising in the heat (95+), I tentatively started on a short trek with full intention to take a few pictures and go to the store for air conditioning asap. But I was off exploring and soon met up with an older lady from New York named Jan, who was sitting in the shade near a mesquite tree. Jan had been solo camping and moteling her way through the canyons of the southern US. We had a great time hiking and resting in whatever shade we could find for a water break, without trying to compete for  endurance. Before I knew it, we had finished the first loop and met up with more GT hikers deciding what was next. Nadja (from Moscow) and Min (from China/Boston) joined up with us and the four of us ladies did ALL the loops. My favorite was Indian Cave, which is a narrow gorge and quite cool inside. Going back, thunderstorm clouds (no rain yet) provided much needed respite from the blazing sun, so we opted for the steep climb to Panorama Point which was definitely worth the effort. Talking and making friends made this scenic hike quite effortless, and when I finally made it to the General store at the end, it was only for a brief stop to get a Popsicle. No need for the toilet even though I had drunk at least a gallon of water!

Camping tonight is a bit Spartan…no showers and wide open desert country. But as evening was falling the temperature was tolerable. Tomorrow is the bus “toss” because 9 day passengers were going to switch busses and everything needed to be rearranged. So it was party time and celebrations for the departing people, and dinner was curry with rice. Yum.

Day 7 of 16-The Great Salt Lake and Mystic Hot Springs

Morning got to baking temp in the sleeper berth again, so forced myself awake with only 4 hours sleep, just as folks were heading after breakfast for a swim in the Great Salt Lake. This is a very scenic spot, though we were the only ones around. Had a bathroom with showers (pay by the minute), so I fed the meter and took a nice long one and read a bit before falling asleep again outside. 

At about 11am we took off for the town of Provo to buy camp supplies and get lunch. I couldn’t believe the price of a fresh-made burrito (yes with meat!) and beans and rice was only $3.95, cheaper than my showers! Back in the bus for a 2 hour drive and a short nap on the way, though having internet was a distraction from sleep.

Camp was Mystic Hot Springs in the town of Monroe, near Richmond, UT. Hah! This resort is owned by a graphic artist who did a lot of artwork for the Grateful Dead and psychedelic posters in the 60’s. With the money he made, he bought this ‘resort’, which has natural hot springs made into several pools and individual clawfoot bathtubs. There is also an office/club house where a rock concert was performed both open air and inside (most of the night). There were a number of old school busses made into “mobile homes” and painted hippy style, as well as legit trailers. The semi-permanent campers behind us had ‘leather feathers’ for sale and a giant blow up object that looked like a party monster. Our resident ex-GDead groupie checked it out and said this was an artist’s creation for Burning Man of a vegetation with 4 different lethal plants.

It was so nice to sit in the tubs under the stars after a dinner of butterfly pasta in mushroom sauce and salad, followed by (purchased) birthday cake for one of the German girls turning 30.  Gratefully the music was quietly contained indoors during my tub soak and sleep in my tent was only interrupted briefly in-between sets by loud campers returning to bed. Somebody was jamming into the wee hours, and I woke up on and off, but thankfully slept through the night feeling relatively well-rested in the am.

In the morning I took a better look around at the art, and realized this must be the source of the “mystic” font I bought to put together a 60’s music poster for Pops.

Day 6 of 16-West Yellowstone

I enjoy being the first one up. I don’t want Dave to have to wake me up to start the morning chores, so I make it a point to get up 30 minutes ahead of schedule and take down my tent. (Also I get warmer working.) But today a group of 4 beat me at my game and went for a pre-dawn walk to see the sunrise at the lake. I would have joined them if I didn’t fear being late back to camp. Breakfast today was “toad in the hole” (or “one-eyed jacks)—you cut a circular hole with a jar lid into slices of stale French bread, and fry an egg in the middle. Fry the cut out pieces in butter. We cut melons up and boiled water for the ever-important cowboy coffee or tea to complete the meal.  The same group of young elk and momma elk from last night came right up to the campsite to graze, so everyone got pictures.

Today we headed north to Canyon Village in Yellowstone, with a stop at Mud Volcano for a short hike. On the way we saw a herd of bison, and the German girls above all went nuts with pictures like it was the animal lottery. They gave me a bad time for not being excited. So I took a few pics. I’ve seen a lot of bison in Calif-- I was hoping for at moose or bear.

At Canyon Village we were let off for a 4-5 hour hike along the north rim of the Yellowstone River starting at Artists point (gorgeous red rocks and a waterfall in the distance). A relatively easy hike led us to Uncle Tom’s trail, where they have built 300 stairs down mid-slope. I skipped the stairs (knees) so walked the rim almost to the other side, where I wished that was the pickup point. Took lots of waterfall pix, but we had too much time for this hike.

Next is West Yellowstone which will be my first good access to wifi will be in this town.

In West Yellowstone we had a long dinner break (on your own) and I found wifi at McD's finally. Caught up with some long overdue emails and phone calls and ran out of time to post this blog! We dropped off passengers to see a real Montana rodeo at 8pm, and I got ready for another marathon evening drive while others in the bus rested or read. In two hours the rodeo was letting out, so we made "the miracle" setting up the beds for a long trip south to Utah. I set my GPS to Salt Lake City and started out the gate for the freeway. Some people talked to me on and off last night and made the trip shorter. I stopped briefly to let passengers pee at a rest stop, and the next stop was for Dave to fill up the bus. I went to bed and woke up at the Great Salt Lake!

Day 5-Yellowstone

It got COLD last night! I didn’t need a jacket at bedtime outside, but by 2am it was freezing. So I was up early packing for the next leg of our trip, Yellowstone! Today we are hiking through Biscuit Basin (the geyser walkway) to Old Faithful Lodge and geyser, and more. So after a great breakfast of hot oatmeal with all the fixings, fresh fruit, and cowboy coffee, we packed our lunches (I chose cold leftover pesto pasta), packed our stuff back into the bus and took off by 8:30am—Dave was proud of our efficiency and said as much. We stopped at the Continental Divide for a picture. Most of the passengers thought it was fun to put one foot on the Atlantic side, and the other foot on the Pacific side/

While I was tempted to skip the walk and head straight for internet access at the lodge, I opted to do both and happy I did. Got some great pics and talked to an older couple from Maryland who drove to Yellowstone for their annual vacation. They remember Mendocino and a trip with their kids tidepooling—which while I was standing in direct sun at Yellowstone, made me wish for home and summer fog.

In the late afternoon we headed for our new group campsite. On the way we saw a family of black bears across the road and there was park traffic control to keep people away. Did a little shopping and set up camp. All of these camps have been mile-plus walks to the showers, but one can manage sponge baths and swim in the lake to stay relatively less smelly. A change of clothes does wonders on that score. I set up my tent and everyone left to go to the lake, so I took advantage of the quiet and took a short nap, to be woken (of course) by the loud German girls coming back from their swim. After dinner (vegetable red sauce and penne pasta with fresh grated romano cheese) I walked to Grant Village and paid $4 for my first official shower in 4 days. It was worth every penny--unlimited shower time--no feeding the meter like in Yosemite. On the way back I saw some young elk, who were honking and grazing their way through the area, and I passed several of our group taking a photo hike to the lake for sunset.

At campfire I was treated to some Blue Moon beers while chatting with our resident 40-year old history grad student/teacher from Chico about the legacies of the various presidents. He doesn’t like traveling much, but was here to please his Bulgarian significant other, who is a history teacher both at the college and several online companies (World History of course). I couldn’t think of a better choice of vacation for them. I delegated fire duty to the psychology prof who has been up to the end each night, read a little bit, and prepared for another cold cold night that starts with shirt sleeves temps at 11pm and is about 40 degrees by 3am.

Day 4-Grand Tetons

Woke up at 6am and by 7am we were in full swing making breakfast: “Freedom” (not “French”) Toast, fruit salad with mangos, pineapple, strawberries, and other fruits, and cowboy coffee. This was my first GT breakfast since I slept through it before.   I made myself useful playing doctor for people with blisters and cuts, since today was a hiking day. Dave drove us to Jenny Lake for hiking, kayaking, or a boat ride over to the Tetons trails and a hike up to inspiration point.  Lots of people. Met several people connected with a hiking family reunion. Took a picture to prove I did it!

Found the bus, and it was a short ride back to camp—at camp people were chilling and reading or playing cards with beer and Frisbees, and me typing my semi-blog in my lounge chair. Nice. BTW, I’ve given up on the ‘blog’ since I seldom have internet! So this will be an email or series of them depending on where we end up.  

Dinner was vegetarian chili with everything in it, an awesome green salad with the works, tortilla chips, and water or beverage you bought. No seconds…I guess after the hike people were hungry!  After dinner most of us took a walk to Jackson Lake to catch the sunset. We picked a treacherous path down to the water, but young to old we all made it down. The 20-somethings from Germany, Holland, England, and Switzerland immediately stripped and jumped it. The woman from Moscow (maybe older than me) wanted badly to get in but was shy about it. So the Chinese/Bostonian woman and I shielded her for modesty while she stripped to undies. She said it was warm, so I’m guessing it’s a top layer effect, because after all the lake is fed by a rapidly shrinking glacier! Three of us looked on, not swimming but enjoying the views of the Teton glaciers and the comradery (and a hike in wet clothes was not appealing, though a bath was tempting).

Back at camp Dave had gone to bed, and I was immediately pressed into duty…Fix my blister? Converter for charging phone? Campfire?  Dave made it clear if we made a campfire I would stay with people to put it out and clean up, and make sure the bus was locked up and bear-safe (no food). With everyone spread all around the group camp I dumbly I thought I might get away with skipping campfire and crawling into bed with my book. But no, so I delegated finding the stuff to make the campfire, and I rounded up the troops playing cards with the promise of banana boats. Turns out the Welsley neuroscience professor (a frequent flyer on these GT trips) was an expert on banana boats, which I never paid attention to when the soccer girls made them at campfire. AK Rosenquist had started the tradition and it survived generations of team campouts, but I never knew exactly. This was a huge hit, especially with the twins. Most of the 2^nd pack of marshmallows and all of the 2^nd box of graham crackers and 2^nd box of Hershey bars were used up. Put the foil away, packed up the food into the bear box and went to bed.

Day 3--Jackson Hole Wyoming

Oops, time change!  At 8:30 my time/9:30 Wyoming time Dave woke me up so I could grab coffee and a roll in town and catch the 10am rafting bus with the passengers. We were scheduled for the Snake River. Company comped me, so what the heck! I’ve been rafting lots, but it was still a great trip. I rode the boat with the Polish family who road the “bull” in front—guaranteed to get wet!  And I volunteered to be one of the front rowers, so I got my share of excitement and soaking, and took a long swim as well (it was hot!). Nothing above a class 3, but fun nevertheless, and in 1.5 hours we were already at the take-out. I slept all the way back to the GT, where we all walked to the bagel place for lunch.

Camping ahead and no more night drives for awhile, so now I could relax. More grocery shopping and ice/camp wood now supplied, Dave took us on a short drive to the Tetons to our campground at Coulter Bay. On the way we talked and watched the twins drink their first root beers bought at the store. The kids each sniffed and looked the bottles over carefully, as one would look at a fine wine. Finally to our relief they each took sips and eventually more sips, savoring the taste. Fun to watch!

We set up camp and started dinner. Dave and I opened beers (the adult kind), which were quickly forgotten while directing people to jobs and chores. Dinner tonight was Szechwan Chinese stir fry with rice and egg drop soup. Dave apologized to the 6 young Chinese people on board (who loved it). We even had chop sticks! No fortune cookies?

After dinner the twins started our campfire, and I went with them on a hike to find marshmallow sticks. Then I showed the foreigners how to make s’mores. The twins didn’t speak English, but their parents said they went on a GT trip back when they were dating, and were excited their boys were finally old enough to bring on a trip like this. They were totally entertained with writing, and drawing, reading and very little else. I could see they were thoroughly enjoying getting the attention of their parents. No electronics necessary! After campfire we sang various songs in various languages, told bad jokes, and drank beer. At 11pm, I put out the fire and tried to read before going comatose.